We spend a lot of time removing trees in Central Pennsylvania. Dead ones, damaged ones, diseased ones, and plenty that were simply the wrong tree planted in the wrong place twenty years ago.
That experience gives us a pretty clear view of what thrives here and what doesn’t. So, if you’re thinking about adding a tree to your property, consider this your honest, practical guide, from people who have seen how these decisions play out over the long run.
First Things First: When Should You Plant?
If you’re reading this in August, here’s the most useful thing we can tell you: August is not the time to plant; it’s the time to plan.
Fall, specifically late September through November, is the single best planting window for most trees in the Harrisburg area. Here’s why:
- The soil is still warm from summer, which encourages root establishment before the ground freezes
- Cooler air temperatures reduce stress on a newly planted tree
- Fall rainfall typically reduces how much supplemental watering you’ll need
- The tree gets a full winter of quiet root development before it’s asked to push out new growth in spring
Spring is a solid second option, but you’ll be competing with heat stress arriving sooner than you’d like. Summer planting, unless you’re committed to heavy, consistent watering, is generally a losing battle.
So: plan now. Plant in October.
Know Your Zone: Central PA Is Hardiness Zone 6b
The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map divides the country based on average minimum winter temperatures. Most of the Harrisburg, Hershey, Camp Hill, and Mechanicsburg area falls into Zone 6b, which means average minimum winter temperatures of -5°F to 0°F.
This matters when you’re choosing trees. A tree that thrives in Richmond, Virginia may not reliably survive a Dauphin County winter. A tree that does beautifully in upstate New York may struggle with our summer humidity. Zone 6b is a good growing zone with a lot of great options; you just want to make sure whatever you plant is rated for it.
Best Trees to Plant in Central PA
Native Trees (Our Top Picks)
Native trees are always a strong choice. They evolved to thrive in this region, they support local wildlife and pollinators, and they’re generally more resistant to the pests and diseases that trouble non-native species. Here are the ones we’d plant in our own yards:
Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis): One of the most beautiful native trees for residential properties. It’s relatively compact (15–25 feet), produces stunning pink-purple blooms in early spring before the leaves emerge, and offers great fall color. Perfect for smaller yards or as an accent tree. Tolerates partial shade and handles Central PA conditions very well.
Red Maple (Acer rubrum): A classic for a reason. Red maples grow at a moderate-to-fast rate, tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, and deliver exceptional fall color — the red-orange display in October is hard to beat. They grow large over time (40–60 feet), so give them room, but they’re one of the most adaptable and reliable trees you can plant in this area.
American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis): If you have the space, sycamores are majestic. They grow large and fast, provide serious shade, and have striking white-and-gray patchwork bark that looks beautiful in winter. They prefer moist areas and do well near streams and low spots. Not for small yards, but spectacular on larger properties.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier): An underused gem. Serviceberries are small to medium trees (15–25 feet) that offer four-season interest: white spring flowers, edible summer berries, vibrant fall foliage, and attractive winter form. They’re native, pest-resistant, and pollinators love them. Excellent for edges of yards or naturalized areas.
American Holly (Ilex opaca): A native evergreen that provides year-round structure, winter berries for birds, and dense privacy screening. Slower growing than some options, but long-lived and very low maintenance once established. Needs both a male and female plant to produce berries.
Great Shade & Ornamental Options for Central PA
Swamp White Oak (Quercus bicolor): One of the best oaks for residential landscapes. More adaptable than many oak species, tolerates wet and clay soils (very common in our area), and grows into a beautifully rounded shade tree over time. Long-lived and worth every year of the wait.
Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum): Don’t let the name fool you; bald cypress is a deciduous conifer that works beautifully in Central PA landscapes, even far from water. It has soft, feathery foliage that turns a warm russet-orange in fall, tolerates clay and wet soils, and is surprisingly pest and disease resistant. An underappreciated choice.
Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata): A refined shade tree with a graceful vase shape, attractive bark, and good fall color. Zelkovas are resistant to Dutch elm disease and often used as a substitute for American elm. They grow to 50–80 feet at maturity but are well-behaved and not prone to the structural issues that plague some fast-growing trees.
Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana): A semi-evergreen magnolia that holds its leaves well into winter in our zone. Creamy white, fragrant flowers bloom in late spring and continue sporadically through summer. More refined and compact than the saucer magnolia, and more tolerant of wet conditions.
Trees to Think Twice About (Or Avoid Entirely)
This is the section where we really mean it when we say: we’ve removed a lot of these.
Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana): If there’s one tree on this list to avoid, it’s this one. Bradford pears grow fast and look beautiful for about 15 years; then their weak branch structure begins to fail. The narrow crotch angles where branches meet the trunk are structurally compromised from the start. They split dramatically in ice storms and wind events, and we’ve removed countless Bradford pears that fell on fences, cars, and structures. Pennsylvania has also added callery pear (the parent species) to its invasive species list. We’d skip this one entirely.
Norway Maple (Acer platanoides): Norway maples are prolific seeders that crowd out native species; they’re invasive in Pennsylvania woodlands, and their dense, shallow root systems are notoriously hard on lawns, driveways, and foundations. If you want a maple, plant a red maple or sugar maple instead; you’ll get better fall color, better ecological value, and a tree that plays nicely with your yard.
Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima): If you have this on your property, you may already be familiar with it; it grows fast, spreads aggressively, and smells unpleasant when cut. It’s classified as an aggressively invasive species in Pennsylvania and has no real redeeming qualities for residential landscapes. It’s also the preferred host plant for the much-despised and destructive spotted lanternfly (IYKYK). If you have one, it’s worth having removed before it spreads further.
Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum): Silver maples grow fast, which is appealing, but that fast growth comes with brittle wood, weak branch structure, and aggressive surface roots that invade sewer lines and crack pavement. They’re not a tree we’d recommend planting close to a home or hardscape. If you want fast-growing shade, there are better options.
A Few Planting Tips Worth Following
Once you’ve chosen your tree, give it the best possible start:
- Dig wide, not deep. The hole should be 2–3 times wider than the root ball but no deeper. Planting too deep is one of the most common and damaging mistakes.
- Don’t amend the soil excessively. Backfill with the native soil you dug out. Over-amended soil can cause the roots to stay within the hole rather than spreading outward.
- Mulch the base right way. Apply 2–4 inches of mulch in a wide ring around the base, but keep it away from the trunk. Mulch piled against the bark (the dreaded “mulch volcano”) traps moisture and invites disease and pests.
- Water consistently for the first two years. Newly planted trees need slow, deep watering once or twice a week during dry periods. A slow trickle for 30–45 minutes is more effective than a quick spray.
- Skip the stakes if you can. Trees that move slightly in the wind develop stronger trunks. If staking is necessary for stability, remove the stakes after one growing season.
One More Thing: Think About the Long Game
Before you plant, consider what that tree will look like in 20 years,
not just this fall. How tall will it get? How wide? Are there power lines overhead? Is it close to the foundation? Will the root system eventually cause problems with your driveway or septic system?
The trees we remove most often aren’t the ones that failed; they’re the ones that succeeded and ended up in a place that couldn’t accommodate them.
If you’re unsure about placement, canopy size, or how a particular species might interact with structures on your property, that’s worth talking through before you plant. A little planning now saves a removal call later.
Questions? We’re Happy to Help.
At Fritchey’s, our job is tree removal, but we’d much rather help you plant the right tree than remove the wrong one in fifteen years. If you have questions about a specific tree on your property, want an assessment of a tree you’re concerned about, or need a free estimate on removal, we’re always glad to take a look.
Contact us for a free estimate — we serve Harrisburg, Hershey, Camp Hill, Mechanicsburg, and communities throughout Dauphin and Cumberland County.
Fritchey’s Tree Service is a locally-owned tree care company serving the greater Harrisburg, PA area, including Hershey, Camp Hill, Mechanicsburg, and surrounding Dauphin and Cumberland County communities.
